The partnership of Restorff and Bettmann was established by Theodore Restorff and William Bettmann both of whom, according to census records (1900), immigrated to the United States from Germany; Bettmann in 1865 and Restorff in 1870.
Prior to establishing Restorff & Bettmann, Theodore G. Restorff was listed in the 1873-1874 New York City Copartnership and Corporation Ditrectory, partnered with a shoemaker named Charles (Carl) Schneider under the firm name of Restorff & Schneider. That partnership was short-lived and by the Spring of 1874 Restorff had moved on, forming his partnership with William Bettmann.
At its start in 1874, the New York City based business was formally called Restorff, Bettmann & Co. however, it was more often simply referred to as Restorff & Bettmann in early newspaper stories and advertisements. This inconsistency was addressed in 1881 when the January 15th edition of a publication called “Bradsreets” announced that Restorff, Bettmann & Co. had been dissolved, with the firm continuing as Restorff & Bettmann. The business would operate under that name up through at the early 1930’s.
As early as 1875 the company was listed at 187 Wooster Street, before moving to Pine Street (usually listed as 70 or 70-1/2 Pine) in 1876. It was in March of that year that the company filed an application to trademark the phrase “Saratoga Dressing.” According to the March 21st edition of the “Official Gazette of the United States Patent Office,” the application was filed on March 11, 1876.
Their Saratoga Dressing would go on to be one of, if not the first, of many shoe and leather related products manufactured by the company over the next 50+ years. Produced in liquid form, the dressing was touted as specifically made “For LADIES and CHILDREN’S BOOTS and SHOES.”
An advertisement made to look like a news item presented their early sales pitch. It was published in the March 18, 1881 edition of Davenport, Iowa’s “Morning Democrat.”
The smearing of thick and vile smelling paste upon the shoe, and the vigorous rubbing of the polishing brush to produce lustre, were done away with as far as ladies’ and childrens’ foot wear are concerned when the wonderful “Saratoga Dressing” was produced in the shape of a liquid, ever ready for use, and requiring no physical exertion to impart a bright and highly polished lustre, which the shoe will retain longer than from any blacking ever invented… It has no smell, and unlike many others, it does not stain stockings or dress…
Another advertisement, this one found in the December 2, 1876 edition of the “Morning Democrat” announced that it revived and restored the shoe leather as well..
However daintily a lady may be dressed, an unfortunate crack, an abraded surface, a brown, scar-like patch upon her gaiters will disturb the serenity of her mind. All these ills, and many more, may be avoided by using Saratoga Dressing, which will make ladies’ and misses’ boots and shoes, which have become coarse, rough, brown or cracked, as splendid as ever, and thus prevent premature throwing away of articles with months of wear in them. The Saratoga Dressing will not rub off, will not soil the most delicate silk nor whitest napery, while it softens the leather, and renders it impervious to dew or damp. It should find a place in every household.
Business apparently grew quickly such that by 1878, this advertisement for New York City’s Ehric’s department store, published in the October 27th edition of the “Daily Herald,” announced that the store’s shoe department had 100 gross “Saratoga Dressing” in stock, for sale at 5 cents a bottle.
Not just available in New York City, as early as 1876 newspaper advertisements for Saratoga Dressing began appearing in the midwest, in places like Davenport, Iowa where this advertisement was found in the December 16, 1876 edition of the “Morning Democrat.”
The company’s Saratoga Dressing remained their marquee product until 1888 when they introduced a new product called Glycerole.
Described as an oil dressing, Resstorff & Bettmann’s own advertising, while not actually stating it, suggested that it was better than their Saratoga Dressing. Consider the wording in this July 18, 1888 advertisement found in Portsmouth, New Hampshire’s “Daily Chronicle.”
Ever since the now indispensable article of Shoe Dressing came into existence, it has been the source of constant trouble to parties using it, because it hardened and cracked the leather and to the dealer, because of the complaints of his customers. Conscientious Shoe Dealers have often dissuaded their patrons from using any Shoe Dressing whatever and advised the application of oil, as it is universally known that oil is the only preservative of leather, while other substances crack and destroy it.
It was claimed for most Dressings heretofore in use that they do not crack leather but it has never before been claimed that an Oil Dressing could be produced, the composition of which was said to be an impossibility. After years of patient work however, we have succeeded in solving the problem of producing an oil, which in addition to its softening and preserving qualities gives also an elegant lustre to leather goods.
Glycerole is a veritable oil and the only one in existence which answers the purpose of oiling, and at the same time dresses leather. It is perfect in its composition, does not rub off or soil dresses or skirts and imparts to worn goods a soft oily lustre which positively preserves the leather and protects it from water.
We do not pretend that a single application of Glycerole will improve a shoe already dried and hardened by numerous coats of common shoe dressing, but we do warrant that all shoes oiled and dressed only with Glycerole will be positively improved in wearing quality, as this oil by penetrating into the pores of the leather will make it more supple and add to its durability.
Restorff & Bettmann, Manufacturers, New York
Not surprisingly, it appears that Glycerole quickly went on to overtake Saratoga as their marquee product, a point made clear in this company snapshot found in the 1891 edition of a publication called the “History of Commerce of New York.” The entry also made it clear that by then the business had grown substantially.
RESTORFF & BETTMANN …Among the leading and prosperous business enterprises of the great down town trade district will be found that of Messrs. Restorff & Bettmann, commission merchants and manufacturers of Glycerole and Leather Dressings, Nos. 70 and 70-1/2 Pine Street… The premises, an entire building 20 x 100 feet in size, are systematic in arrangement and the general complete appointment includes all the modern business conveniences and facilities. The firm do a heavy commission business in both home and foreign produce; their immense general line reaching pretty much all over the world. In the manufacture of “Glycerole” and leather dressings the house has gained a wide celebrity, these famous articles having today a large sale and standard value upon all markets both at home and abroad…
In 1895 the company moved to 35 Bond Street, likely the result of a January fire that occurred in their Pine Street factory. The fire was described in the January 28, 1895 edition of the “Evening World.”
Fire broke out on the second floor at 70-1/2 Pine Street shortly before 11 o’clock this morning. The building, a four-story structure, is occupied by Restorff & Bettmann, manufacturers of shoe dressing.
The flames spread from floor to floor with great rapidity and a second alarm was turned in. Seven men working on the third floor had to hustle lively to get out of the building, and two girls, Lena Cohen, of 170 Henry Street, and Bridget Brennan, of 86 Furman Street, Brooklyn, on the second floor, had a narrow escape.
They were at work pasting labels on bottles when the fire broke out, and becoming panic stricken, crouched trembling at the table where they worked. Phillip Goldberg, of 84 Monroe Street, called to them to get out. When they did not stir, he grabbed each about the waist and forced them to the stairway. The flames were then bursting through the walls and in a moment more escape might have been cut off.
The origin of the fire is a mystery. No one knows exactly where it broke out or how it began. It is estimated that the building is damaged to the extent of $2,500, while the stock, valued at $5,000 is a total loss.
During the 1890’s the company’s advertising suggests that their product line continued to grow, with this January 6, 1897 advertisement in the “Boot and Shoe Recorder” listing several new products under the name “Vaserole.” Though still included, “Saratoga Dressing” was listed last and simply called:
The best 10 cent shoe polish that can be offered to the public.
By the early 1900’s, another “Boot and Shoe Recorder” advertisement, this one in their October 21, 1903 edition, makes it clear that their menu of products had expanded further.
Shortly after the above advertisement was published changes in management were in the works when Theodore Restorff passed away. According to the May 15, 1904 edition of “The Shoe Retailer and Boot and Shoes Weekly:”
FIRM NAME AND BUSINESS TO BE CONTINUED
The recent death of Mr. Theodore G. Restorff, a well-known man in the shoe and leather world and who was a member of the firm of Restoff & Bettmann, 35 and 37 Bond Street, New York City, manufacturers of blackings, dressing and other preparations for men’s, women’s and children’s shoes, has necessitated the dissolution of the former partnership, and it is announced that all right, title and interest in the business has been sold to William Bettmann, the surviving member of the firm, who will continue the business under the name of Restorff & Bettmann, as heretofore. Mr. Bettmann retains the same efficient force of employees and he will be assisted in the management of the business by his son, Jesse W. Bettmann.
A year later, the May 14, 1905 edition of the “New York Times” announced that the business had incorporated under the Restorff & Bettmann name, with Bettmann, his son, Jesse and Ludwig Engel all named as directors.
It appears that the Bettmann’s left the business shortly after it incorporated. As early as 1906, the New York City Copartnership and Corporation Directory listed the company address as 426 East 106th Street and named Ludwig Engel as president. There was no mention of Bettmann who by 1910 listed his occupation as “real estate” in census records.
The company continued to operate under Engel for two plus decades. Sometime around 1910 the company moved back to lower Manhattan where they initially listed their address as 135 Wooster Street before moving to 79 Mercer St in the early teens. At that point the company was still producing a large menu of items including “Glycerole,” as evidenced by this December, 1913 advertisement found in the “Druggist Circular.” Notably absent from the menu was any mention of “Saratoga Dressing.
Sometime in 1925 the company moved to Reade Street where it remained until sometime in the early 1930’s after which I lose track.
The subject bottle is 4-1/4 inches tall with a 1-1/2 inch square cross section. Blown in a mold it contains 3 ounces. It matches the style of bottle the company was using by the early 1880’s, as evidenced by this advertisement found in several July, 1881 editions of Lafayette, Indiana’s “Journal & Courier.”
A bottle recently pictured on e-bay that’s embossed with the original company name of Restorff, Bettmann & Co. exhibits a different style so its possible the company changed styles in 1881 after the formal company name-change to Restorff & Bettmann.
If that’s the case, then the subject bottle dates between 1881 and roughly 1910 when I’d expect a machine-made bottle.